MOUNTAINEERING & PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL

Mountaineering:
Since ancient times, people have viewed mountain peaks as towering objects of myth, spiritual inspiration, and romantic beauty. Early peoples made ascents only to hunt game, to rescue lost or strayed animals, or to gain a military advantage over an enemy. Eventually, the unknown and inaccessible ceased to be something to be feared and avoided, and the conquest of the major mountain peaks and ranges of the world began. Mountaineering as a sport was born on August 8, 1786 , with the first ascent of Mont Blanc (4807 m/15,771 ft), one of Europe 's tallest peaks. Since that ascent, mountain climbing has evolved into three related sports: alpine climbing, ice climbing, and rock climbing. These sports require the same fundamental techniques. 

With eight of the highest peaks in the world, Nepal has been the focus of some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. For many decades the persevering icy peaks have posed as challenge to those who dare. There are some 326 peaks in Nepal open for mountaineering today. His Majesty's Government of Nepal opened around 175 peaks in the last two years to mark the Mount Everest Golden Jubilee Celebrations. The mountaineering sports became popular all over the world when Sir Ed. Hillary and Tenzing Norgay scaled the Mt. Everest in May 1953. The adventure and challenge brought-forward by mountaineering sports are still on, and we find "Enthusiastic Mountaineers' Flocks" increasing every year.The government of Nepal has opened many peaks for mountaineering expedition. Some of them mentioned below are suggested to the potential contestants.

Peak Climbing:
There are many smaller mountains in Nepal called ‘trekking peaks' (ranging from 5587 to 6654 metres) which keen trekkers can climb. Most Everest Base Camp trekkers make the ascent of Kala Pathar for the view of Everest and at 5545 metres this would be a substantial peak anywhere else in the world.

By Himalayan standards these are minor peaks, but some of them provide challenging snow and ice climbing. To climb trekking peaks, a permit is required from the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Royalties depend on the altitude of the peak. Climbing gear can be bought or rented in Kathmandu , and while tents, stoves, sleeping bags and down gear should pose no problems, socks, shoes, clothing and freeze dried food are likely to be harder to find.

ISLAND PEAK CLIMBING

Altitude:  6189 m
Grade: Medium
Season: Feb – May/Sep – Dec
Trek Type: Guest House & camping
Total Trip Days: 16 Days
Trekking Days: 10 Days
Climbing Days: 2 Days
Kathmandu Accommodation: Budget Hotel
Trekking Accommodation: Budget Guest House

Itinerary:

Day 01:- Arrival Kathmandu and Overnight at Hotel.
Arrive at the Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, Nepal. Pickup by our representative and transfer to Hotel. If the time permits Briefing of the Trek otherwise briefing will be done next day.

Day 02:- Kathmandu Free Day, Overnight at Hotel.
If time permits to do briefing in day 01 then the whole day is free otherwise trip briefing will be done. Then free and relax.

Day 03:- Kathmandu to Lukla (2850 m) trek to Phakding (2650 m)
A short spectacular mountain flight to Lukla (2850m) early in the morning takes us to the gateway of the Everest trek. After a short explore of Lukla village, the trek starts with a descent towards the Dudh Koshi River which meets the main trail of our trek. This fairly easy 4-5 hours trek passes trough few pleasant Sherpa villages and provides magnificent views of Kongde and Kusumkangaru; two of Nepal’s technical trekking peaks. We fnally reach Phakding where we stay for the night.

Day 04:– Phakding to Namche Bazzar(3440m.)
We start the morning with slow ascend through the blue pine and rhododendron forest that is very spectacular in the spring months when the flowers are in full bloom. We will cross the Dudh Koshi River at Benkar and enjoy great views of the snow peaks Kusum Kangaru and Thamserku until we reach Monjo. After Monjo the trek will be a little strenuous with steep ascent. We then enter the Sagarmatha National Park where our permits are checked before we descend quite steeply to Jorsale. The trek continues upstream on a flat terrain to the confluence of the Bhote Koshi and Dudh Koshi rivers. After crossing a large suspension bridge high above the river we climb steeply up to the village of Namche Bazaar where we will have the first glimpse of  Everest including , Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam and Tawoche. This is a slow 6-7 Hours walk to reach Namche where we spend the night.

Day 05:– Rest day in Namche Bazzar(3440m.)
Today is a rest and acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar. Namche is a colorful village with many wonderful and interesting shops and vendors, fabulous food, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. An early hike above town, before the clouds move in, reward climbers with a spectacular Himalayan sunrise and views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse (the 4th highest peak in the world), and the beautiful Ama Dablam. On the way down, we can visit the Sherpa Museum that houses an exhibit on traditional Sherpa lifestyle and a fabulous photography display by a local Nepalese naturalist.  There is the option of walking up to the Everest View Hotel 3,900m to khumjung Hillary village or day hike to Thame. Overnight stay Namche in Guest House.

Day 06:– Namche Bazzar to Tengboche (3865m.)
From Namche, the trail contours on to the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi through few villages and numerous tea shops. We descend steeply before we cross over the river at Phunki Tenga. The village is an ideal stopover for lunch where we can rest before making the steep climb to Tengboche. Although the hike up the zigzag path is tiring, it presents us with many beautiful sights of rhododendron bushes with beautiful birds and superb mountain scenery. On most treks we see Himalayan Thar, Danphe (the National Bird of Nepal) and Musk Deer along the trail. Tengboche is famous for its legendary monastery; the largest in the Khumbu. We spend the night next to the Thyangboche monastery, the spiritual center of the Khumbu region.  It takes 6-7 hours to reach there where we spend the night.

Day 07:- Tengboche – Dingboche (4413m.)
The trail initially descends through beautiful rhododendron forests and reaches a bridge across the Imja river, after which it is a short walk to the settlement of Pangboche (3860m). After this point the trail is relatively easy, with a gentle climb towards Dingboche at 4410m. Overnight in Guest House.

Day 08:- Dingboche – Chhukung (4730m.)
Lunch at chhukung then our guide will take to you Chhukung Ri 5500m for superb Himalayan views including the Mt. Everest 8848m, Mt Lhotse 8516m, Mt. Nuptse 7855m, Mt. Amadablam 6856m, Mt. Thamserku 6723m, Mt. Kantega 6685m, Mt.Kusum Khagaru 6367m,Mt.Kongde 6011m,Mt. Khumbila 5761m(God of the Khumbu),Mt.Twache peak 6367m, Mt. Cholaste 6335m ,Island peak 6179m, Lobuche peak 6145m,Pokalde peak 5806m, Honku south peak 6119m etc, back to Chhuking and overnight at Chhukung (4730m)

Day 09:- Chhukung -Island Peak Base camp (5,200m/17,060ft): 3-4 hours
The path from Chhukung leads fairly steep way climbing south then turning east to the main line of the valley. It then winds along or below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Continue short pleasant walking along a streamside leads to what we call Big-rock. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisis cross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island peak. Overnight in Island Peak Base Camp. (B, L, D)
 
Day 10:- Island Peak Base Camp to High Camp (5,600m/18,372ft): 2-3 hours
You will have move to Island Peak high camp, from where you will climb the mountain. The path leads up beyond base camp for several hundred meters before striking off left up the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As you climb the hill, you will see that the slope narrows and the path enter a steep rock channel. Overnight in Island Peak High Camp. (B, L, D)
 
Day 11:- High camp to summit to Base camp to Chhukung: 8-10 hours
Island Peak Ascent (6,189m/20,305ft), from early in the morning will have to climb the rock gully. This is not difficult but there are several short rock steps to climb before you emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m(330ft) snow and ice slope (40-45°) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. After enjoying the summit views you will descend all the way to Chhukung for overnight. (B, L, D)
 
Day 12:- Chhukung to Tengboche: 5-6 hours
The trail makes a gradual descent through scrub junipers and around Mani stones as it follows the hillside. The trail passes many Mani walls in deep rhododendron forests where crossing after the Imja khola, the trail climbs many carved Mani stones to Pangboche. Pangboche Gompa is the oldest in Khumbu; a visit will be well worth. Walk down to the valley from where the trail is shallower through alpine meadows. Followed by climb gradually up to Tengboche (3,870m/12,697ft) where the biggest monastery lies in the whole of Khumbu. (B, L, D)
 
Day 13:- Tengboche to Namche Bazaar: 4-5 hours
Walk down from the rear of monastery and continue down until you reach Phunki Tenga. Climb up gradually through a forest. Once you are out of the forest, you will be walking along a ridge from where you can see down on your left some of the deepest gorges of Nepal. In spring, the rhododendrons will look superb making the valley even more beautiful. Reach Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft), for overnight. (B, L, D)
 
Day 14:– Namche to Lukla (2850m.)
Our final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi down to Lukla. It takes around 7 hours to go back to Lukla    where we stay for the night. This last evening calls for a celebration. We have a party with our Sherpa guides and porters. We sample some change (local beer) and try out some Sherpa dance steps. Altogether an end to a memorable trip on a merry note.

Day 15:– Lukla fly back to Kathmandu (1300m.)
Early morning 05:30 for breakfast then check in airport for flight back to Kathmandu. Transfer from the airport to the hotel.

Day 16:- Transfer to Airport for final Departure.

Cost Includes:
• Airport Pickup and Drop.
• Domestic Flight of Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu US $ 230.00 per person.
• Kathmandu Accommodation on twin sharing standard room in Marsyangdi Hotel (3 star) or similar.
• Accommodation during trekking will be on local guest Houses with common bath.
• Tented accommodation during climbing period.
• All ground transportation by private vehicles.
• Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner throughout the trip.
• Welcome & farewell dinner
• Climbing permit, climbing Sherpa, cook and helpers wages.
• TIMS and Everest National Park entry fee.
• Staff Insurance.
• Office gear like fixed rope, main rope, Ice par, Ice screw, Ice hammer, Dome Tent.
• English speaking trekking guide and porter.
•Travel & Rescue arrangements.
•All government and local taxes.

Cost Exclude:
• International Airfare.
• Domestic Airport Tax.
• Bar, Beverage, Mineral water, Laundry, Telephone charge etc.
• Personal Gear for climbing like Ice Axe, Crampons, Climbing Boots, Climbing Helmet, Harness etc.
• Emergency Rescue.
• Travel Insurance.
• Personal Nature cost.
• Garbage Deposit

Expedition at Mt.Everest	Climbing Mt.Everest	Climbing at Lumding Himlaya